Cali - Capital of Salsa

 We flew from Cartagena to Cali … yes, Cali of the bad narco-reputation, but no longer.  It’s a bustling city on the Cauca River, the second largest river of Colombia, the southernmost point of our trip, and most importantly, the center of the salsa universe. 

We were slightly more than halfway through our itinerary, and I think we’d hit a bit of a stride.  We’d gotten comfortable with our agency-coordinated mode of travel, the Spanish had become more familiar if not more understandable, and the anxieties we’d had about travel had moderated.  On the other hand, by the time we left Cartagena, we’d become clear about our limitations - the extent to which heat and humidity sapped our energy, the fatigue induced by long drives on winding, rough roads, just the psychic need for down-time.

We were in Cali for only 2 days, really a way-station between touristy Cartagena and a focused birding experience in the hills above Cali.  We had a “city tour” planned for our second day led by Catalina, a 30-something guide.  She was all in on salsa! playing favorite or classic songs on her phone while in our transport van, dancing and singing to salsa she heard on the street.  It was very entertaining!

Catalina led us on walks around the old central square with its history dating back to independence from Spain, the city’s oldest neighborhood of San Antonio with its beautiful murals depicting its history, and a pleasant park along the Cauca River.  

The oldest church in the oldest neighborhood of Cali

Parque el Gato de Tejada - The main 3-ton bronze statue donated by Colombia artist Hernando Tejada was installed as part of a beautification effort in 1996, and then 15 additional gatos by local artists were added ten years later.

A very cool sculpture in Jairo Varela park in the city center, which spells out “Niche,” the name of one of the most famous salsa bands of Colombia. People danced to Niche salsa music played under each of the downturned bells,  A very cool community gathering place!

One of the colorful murals depicting Cali’s history of colonization and liberation.

Catalina with her charges in from of the much-photographed Cali letters

Near our hotel in Cali, Kate tried out the local hair-cutting artistry … for $8.50!

But the highlights of the tour were a salsa class and a visit to a quirky, lively salsa museum where we heard and saw the exuberant life of salsa.

Our salsa teacher was very patient and supportive, despite our “rustiness”!

In an old working class neighborhood, near the salsa museum, this statue seemed like a cross between Elvis and Frankie Davis, Jr.

Catalina introduced us to three local legends of salsa: from left, Marco, Fantastico, and Teo

The salsa museum was a small space packed with photos of famous salsa musicians from across Latin America, one wall for Colombia, one for Cuba, one for Venezuela, etc. It was not your typical quiet, contemplative museum experience, with those on the tour with us dancing and singing with each new song.