New Feelings in the New Year

2024.  New Year.  In Colombia.  Day 6 of our trip.  It’s different.  Different from “before.”  How is a little elusive. Both Kate and I expressed some anxiety before we left home, a sense of dis-ease.  For me, this feeling was, in part, physical … my knee that lately buckles sometimes, my Achilles still sore from a Pickleball mishap, some nasty pain running down my neck to my right shoulder. OY!

But it wasn’t mostly those things. It was … unsure-ness, an absence of confidence once assumed.  Before, when we got on a plane, we knew we would figure things out, we knew the unfamiliar would jazz us not throw us for a loop. We knew.  We even anticipated the confidence gap this time by working with a company to organize much of this trip, most especially intercity transport.. 

As if the Fates wanted to allay our concerns, our guide for Bogota, Jose Luis, and a driver met us at the airport for our late night arrival, took us to the apartment we had rented, and rousted the night doorman to let us in.  Ahhhhh.  All good.

Seven days later, the anxiety remains for me.  Perhaps it’s having to confront my awful Spanish and the confusion and isolation that comes with being unable to communicate.  Perhaps it’s how physical limitations are a daily, even hourly, reminder of things we may not be able to do on this journey - even a short, though steep hike to a viewpoint above Villa de Leyva, a lovely town north of Bogota and our second stop, seemed too much and we retreated to a bar for beers.  Perhaps, though, it’s traveling like this in a world fraught with political instability and climate-caused dislocation. It’s unclear.

So, this blog will be a bit different from previous ones, peppered with reflections like these, trying to figure out what “adventure travel” now means in our 70s and beyond and in 2024+. Or NOT!  Who knows, maybe our trip, the travels will feel different tomorrow ….

First Days

Colombia has reached the top of travel lists, at least among our friends, maybe because the country has reached some calm after decades - even centuries - of political upheaval, civil unrest, and narco-violence, plus pent up Covid demand.  The beauty and cultural richness is evident immediately. 

Bogota lies high (8500’) in the Andes, a city of 8 million spread out over 860 square miles.. A highlight of our visit was a visit up Mt. Monserrate, even 2000’ higher!, a pilgrimage for the religious and crazy training ground for serious runners and bikers. The record for running up the 1.8 miles to the top was set 40 years ago, 17 minutes.  Doesn’t sound fast, compared with sub-4 minute mile track records, but this 17 minutes gained nearly 2000’!  We took the funicular built by Austrians 60+ years ago. Views of the surrounding mountains and the city were amazing.

Riding the funicular up Mt. Monserrat, Bogota below.

Taken of even higher points from Mt. Monserrat

The Spanish came here for gold and found it, big time.  Much was stolen/looted from indigenous communities and lost forever in the melting pots of the conquerors.  Some, however, has been found largely intact in various places in Colombia, some pieces that escaped the Spanish fires have been repatriated. This patrimony is displayed in Bogotá’s Gold Museum, a literally and figuratively dazzling collection. We also enjoyed the Botero Museum; even if you don’t know his name, you recognize the fatter-than-life images for which he’s known. He gave a huge collection of his work to Colombia in honor of his native country.

The Bolero Museum

A golden raft, the prize of the Gold Museum, perhaps 6-8 inches long, exquisite.